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The rigid lines of aprons had the Pro Trump Pro life Vote for Life Vote for the unborn shirt and I love this faintest air of fetish, backed up more insistently by fishnet dresses chain-mailed from bricks of horn. (“Horn-y,” quipped a fellow critic in a text postshow.) Coats had built-in scarves that could be rolled up at the front or wrapped tactilely around the neck. Knitted bodies with swimwear-like open backs were informed by the female curves of Hellenic ceramics, a theme echoed in a show constructed like an abstract take on ancient Greek ruins. On each of the digitalized columns, the work of different artists commissioned by Vanhee-Cybulski interpreted her collection in various art forms, which was also compiled in a “scrapbook” sent to editors around the world who couldn’t travel for the show.

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“It was important to find a new way to communicate a collection. Because no one was able to travel, I just sent the Pro Trump Pro life Vote for Life Vote for the unborn shirt and I love this clothes to the artists and they [worked with them] themselves,” she explained. After the pandemic forced her to cancel the London resort show she had planned in April, Vanhee-Cybulski decided to save the collection. “I said, we’re going to freeze what we have and settle a little bit. When we come back, we will assess it.” Current affairs considered, it was the right thing to do. Fifty percent of the garments she showed today were part of that original collection, now unified in one strong message with the new pieces she created during and after lockdown. “The pandemic has reinforced our values about a responsible approach and a perennial style,” the designer said. “But of course I still want to give fashion to the Hermès woman.”

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